Friday, January 20, 2012

Mont Blanc du Tacul


A slightly to leisurely start to the day unfortunately saw us catching the 10 am bin up the midi instead of the intended 8.50 however we decided to ski across to the Mont Blanc du Tacul and check out the Chéré couloir. A grade iv climb with bolted belays.

However we weren't the only ones with our sights set on the route and our relaxed start had let another group get in front of us.
So we crossed the bergshrund and started the first pitch up 65 deg ice to the base of the rock. From here the gully starts and so did the barrage of crap being thrown down from above.

We soldiered on up and as the ice steepens we made it to the crux and next belay point. The temperature was a slightly unpleasant -25 with wind chill and as the day was rapidly disappearing combined with no longer being able to cope with brick size chunks of ice flying at my face we retreated back down to the Vallee Blanche.

A short walk back to our skis and there was a decision to be made..... Hike back up to the midi or attempt to ski the vb in under 50 mins to make the final train home.

The ski was ON. A combined dsfent of the Classic, Vrai and finally Petite Envers had as at the bottom in 38 mins with time to spare before the train left.


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